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sadly completely It is a brave tour company that takes its charges deep into the claustrophobic heart of old Varanasi on foot, but Hubert Giraud, our tour manager, has found a local film-maker and a theologian who prove to be superb guides. They explain the cleansing rituals of the thousands of pilgrims immersing themselves in the Ganges and lead us through an encampment of naked sadhus sitting beneath tarpaulins smoking fat joints, skeins of marigolds threaded through their dreadlocks.